“Grandma is a true Beijinger; she was raised on Niujie!” My mom has told me this ever since I was a child. Niujie, or Ox Street, nestled in the Xicheng District of Beijing, is the beating heart of the city’s Muslim community. The city’s oldest and largest Mosque, the Niujie Libaisi (Ox Street Mosque), and a tapestry of halal eateries, butchers, and supermarkets are located here. Niujie is not just a street; it’s a cultural hub where generations of Muslims have lived, worked, and worshipped, preserving their traditions and heritage.
Grandma’s roots weren’t in Beijing. She was born in Jinan, a city in Shandong – a province south of the capital. After losing her parents in the aftermath of the Chinese Civil War, she was brought to Beijing by a relative at age seven to start primary school. Some years later, Grandma found solace and family with a Hui Muslim family. Beijing became her sanctuary, and Niujie was her sanctuary within it. To Grandma, Beijing isn’t about the towering skyscrapers and the majesty of the Forbidden City, nor the magnificence of the Great Wall and the grandness of the Temple of Heaven. To Grandma, Beijing’s true essence lies in Niujie.
Today, Niujie has transformed from a local community to a bustling tourist hotspot, and the Mosque is a welcome place for worship for Muslims worldwide. Grandma, now 80 years old, resides in the far south of Beijing, away from the urban bustle. “It’s so crowded in the city; why would I ever go there?” she would grumble. But Niujie? She could never let go. The familiar sights, sounds, and aromas of her cherished past never fail to ignite a youthful vigor in her.
Earlier this year, I celebrated the Chinese New Year with my family in Beijing. On the festival’s final day, also known as the Lantern Festival, my mother and I decided to spend an afternoon at Niujie. We were immersed in the vibrant atmosphere, the joyful chatter, and the tantalizing aromas of the food stalls. We captured moments of celebration and tradition on film, each frame a testament to the rich cultural heritage of Niujie and the joy it brings to its people.
We started our trip with a traditional Beijing meal: Shuanyangrou, or Mutton Hotpot. Also referred to as Instant-boiled Mutton, the meal consists of boiling slices of mutton, tofu, and vermicelli in a copper pot heated by coal. After the contents are cooked, they are dipped in a sesame paste. Other common proteins are beef omasum and lamb kidney. Image: Shangbie Du
We started our trip with a traditional Beijing meal: Shuanyangrou, or Mutton Hotpot. Also referred to as Instant-boiled Mutton, the meal consists of boiling slices of mutton, tofu, and vermicelli in a copper pot heated by coal. After the contents are cooked, they are dipped in a sesame paste. Other common proteins are beef omasum and lamb kidney. Image: Shangbie Du
We started our trip with a traditional Beijing meal: Shuanyangrou, or Mutton Hotpot. Also referred to as Instant-boiled Mutton, the meal consists of boiling slices of mutton, tofu, and vermicelli in a copper pot heated by coal. After the contents are cooked, they are dipped in a sesame paste. Other common proteins are beef omasum and lamb kidney. Image: Shangbie Du
Outside, swaths of people queue in the cold to purchase pastries, desserts, and snacks for the evening to celebrate the final day of the Chinese New Year festival, also known as the Lantern Festival. Image: Shangbie Du
Outside, swaths of people queue in the cold to purchase pastries, desserts, and snacks for the evening to celebrate the final day of the Chinese New Year festival, also known as the Lantern Festival. Image: Shangbie Du
Outside, swaths of people queue in the cold to purchase pastries, desserts, and snacks for the evening to celebrate the final day of the Chinese New Year festival, also known as the Lantern Festival. Image: Shangbie Du
A business selling various Halal foods traditional to Beijing. The foods from left to right: Old Beijing boiled beef tripe with vermicelli, fried cake/bao, and yuanxiao. Image: Shangbie Du
A business selling various Halal foods traditional to Beijing. The foods from left to right: Old Beijing boiled beef tripe with vermicelli, fried cake/bao, and yuanxiao. Image: Shangbie Du
A business selling various Halal foods traditional to Beijing. The foods from left to right: Old Beijing boiled beef tripe with vermicelli, fried cake/bao, and yuanxiao. Image: Shangbie Du
A closer look: a vendor selling three different flavors of handmade halal yuanxiao, glutinous rice balls with a sweet filling. They are a common dessert eaten at the Lantern Festival. From left to right, the flavors are hawthorn fruit, chocolate, and five-grain. Image: Shangbie Du
A closer look: a vendor selling three different flavors of handmade halal yuanxiao, glutinous rice balls with a sweet filling. They are a common dessert eaten at the Lantern Festival. From left to right, the flavors are hawthorn fruit, chocolate, and five-grain. Image: Shangbie Du
A closer look: a vendor selling three different flavors of handmade halal yuanxiao, glutinous rice balls with a sweet filling. They are a common dessert eaten at the Lantern Festival. From left to right, the flavors are hawthorn fruit, chocolate, and five-grain. Image: Shangbie Du
Another long queue for yuanxiao can be seen on another section of the street. Image: Shangbie DuA queue for shaobing – a flaky flatbread, which is a staple for many Beijingers. Image: Shangbie DuThe entrance of the Niujie Libaisi, or the Niujie Mosque. The Mosque was originally built in 996 under the Liao Dynasty, then reconstructed and enlarged under the Qing Dynasty. The main prayer hall is approximately 600 square meters and can accommodate up to 1,000 worshippers. Image: Shangbie Du
The entrance of the Niujie Libaisi, or the Niujie Mosque. The Mosque was originally built in 996 under the Liao Dynasty, then reconstructed and enlarged under the Qing Dynasty. The main prayer hall is approximately 600 square meters and can accommodate up to 1,000 worshippers. Image: Shangbie Du
The entrance of the Niujie Libaisi, or the Niujie Mosque. The Mosque was originally built in 996 under the Liao Dynasty, then reconstructed and enlarged under the Qing Dynasty. The main prayer hall is approximately 600 square meters and can accommodate up to 1,000 worshippers. Image: Shangbie Du
Party slogans were painted on a section of the wall encircling the Mosque. The Wangyuelou, or the ‘Moonwatch Tower”, is visible, right behind it. Image: Shangbie Du
Party slogans were painted on a section of the wall encircling the Mosque. The Wangyuelou, or the ‘Moonwatch Tower”, is visible, right behind it. Image: Shangbie Du
Party slogans were painted on a section of the wall encircling the Mosque. The Wangyuelou, or the ‘Moonwatch Tower”, is visible, right behind it. Image: Shangbie Du
The wall connects to a door to the inner section of the compound, which is not accessible to visitors. On the left side of the door, there is a plaque that reads: “National Key Cultural Relic Protected Unit,” alluding to the Mosque’s status as a heritage site protected at the national level. Selected by the National Cultural Heritage Administration of the State Council, cultural relics such as the Niujie Mosque are under the highest level of protection in the country. Image: Shangbie Du
The wall connects to a door to the inner section of the compound, which is not accessible to visitors. On the left side of the door, there is a plaque that reads: “National Key Cultural Relic Protected Unit,” alluding to the Mosque’s status as a heritage site protected at the national level. Selected by the National Cultural Heritage Administration of the State Council, cultural relics such as the Niujie Mosque are under the highest level of protection in the country. Image: Shangbie Du
The wall connects to a door to the inner section of the compound, which is not accessible to visitors. On the left side of the door, there is a plaque that reads: “National Key Cultural Relic Protected Unit,” alluding to the Mosque’s status as a heritage site protected at the national level. Selected by the National Cultural Heritage Administration of the State Council, cultural relics such as the Niujie Mosque are under the highest level of protection in the country. Image: Shangbie Du
A view of the northern perimeter of the Mosque. Snow lines the rooftops and walls. As evident in the photo, the Mosque is of typical Chinese-style architecture. The Mosque lies within a complex of approximately 10,000 square meters, including several other buildings. The inner complex is organized into two courtyards and designed in the typical Beijing siheyuan style. Image: Shangbie Du
A view of the northern perimeter of the Mosque. Snow lines the rooftops and walls. As evident in the photo, the Mosque is of typical Chinese-style architecture. The Mosque lies within a complex of approximately 10,000 square meters, including several other buildings. The inner complex is organized into two courtyards and designed in the typical Beijing siheyuan style. Image: Shangbie Du
A view of the northern perimeter of the Mosque. Snow lines the rooftops and walls. As evident in the photo, the Mosque is of typical Chinese-style architecture. The Mosque lies within a complex of approximately 10,000 square meters, including several other buildings. The inner complex is organized into two courtyards and designed in the typical Beijing siheyuan style. Image: Shangbie Du
A look down Ox Street where an array of food stalls and eateries can be found. Every stall is accompanied by a Chinese flag. In the forefront is a statue of a street food vendor wearing a kufi. Image: Shangbie Du
A look down Ox Street where an array of food stalls and eateries can be found. Every stall is accompanied by a Chinese flag. In the forefront is a statue of a street food vendor wearing a kufi. Image: Shangbie Du
A look down Ox Street where an array of food stalls and eateries can be found. Every stall is accompanied by a Chinese flag. In the forefront is a statue of a street food vendor wearing a kufi. Image: Shangbie Du
One of those businesses on the street is a Halal butcher. Regardless of ethnicity, many locals regularly frequent the butchers for their fresh beef and mutton. Image: Shangbie Du
One of those businesses on the street is a Halal butcher. Regardless of ethnicity, many locals regularly frequent the butchers for their fresh beef and mutton. Image: Shangbie Du
One of those businesses on the street is a Halal butcher. Regardless of ethnicity, many locals regularly frequent the butchers for their fresh beef and mutton. Image: Shangbie Du
The street is lined with a mural that depicts the 56 ethnic groups in China. On the left, the text reads min zu tuan jie da jia ting, or Family Ethnic Unity. Image: Shangbie Du
The street is lined with a mural that depicts the 56 ethnic groups in China. On the left, the text reads min zu tuan jie da jia ting, or Family Ethnic Unity. Image: Shangbie Du
The street is lined with a mural that depicts the 56 ethnic groups in China. On the left, the text reads min zu tuan jie da jia ting, or Family Ethnic Unity. Image: Shangbie Du
While crossing the road, I spotted a resting area where a family stopped to eat. Image: Shangbie Du
While crossing the road, I spotted a resting area where a family stopped to eat. Image: Shangbie Du
While crossing the road, I spotted a resting area where a family stopped to eat. Image: Shangbie Du
Shangbie is a Junior Fellow at The Hague Journal of Diplomacy and a researcher at Law and Research Network. He holds a master’s degree in international relations and diplomacy from Leiden University (2023).
